Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: A Delphi consensus study

Background There is ambiguity regarding the topical cosmetic ingredients preferred for common skin complaints. Objective To determine which topical ingredients are frequently recommended by cosmetic dermatologists for fine lines and wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin, and oily skin. Methods Literature review to develop long list of ingredients. Reduced by expert panel to most salient ingredients. Two rounds of Delphi consensus survey with second expert panel of clinicians and teachers. Comparative literature review to summarize published evidence supporting each consensus ingredient. Results List of 318 ingredients reduced by a panel of 17 dermatologists to 83. Two Delphi rounds completed by 62 dermatologists at 43 centers. Consensus achieved for 23 ingredients, including the following: azelaic acid (acne, dark spots); benzoyl peroxide (acne, oily skin); glycolic acid (acne, dark spots); mineral sunscreen (fine lines and wrinkles, redness); niacinamide (redness, dark spots); retinoids (fine lines and wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores, oily skin); salicylic acid (acne, oily skin); vitamin C (fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots). Most consensus ingredients supported by level 1b or 2b evidence. Limitations Some ingredients based on expert opinion. Conclusion Consensus exists among expert cosmetic dermatologists regarding ingredients most useful for common dermatologic concerns.